#2011 macbook pro value upgrade#

#2011 macbook pro value upgrade#

Battery life isn't going to be great and it isn't going to be fast, and really will need at the very least a SSD upgrade to be usable. This should give you security updates through to approximately November 2022 (Mojave) or approximately November 2023 (Catalina).īut even if you did that, to me its a lot of money to spend for something to be usable for a max of 2 and a bit years.

These might be able to be upgraded to Mojave or Catalina through patches, but I'm not sure. These models are no longer getting feature updates (last was 10.13 from 2017), and they're not longer getting security updates (Last was November 2020). As the above posters have said the GPUs were prone to failure. That said I wouldn't touch one as a purchase unless I explicitly knew the history, even then probably not. I know that my 2011 has seen hard use and survives. I do think there is the potential for good ones to exist, however I also believe that they are very few and far between. If original will be very close to end of life with sourcing a known good one problematic. To be brutally honest the 2011 15' & 17' MBP's are at a high risk of failure due to general ageing and the poor design/manufacture of the Radeon dGPU. I know it's still 100% stock with no reworking of the Logic Board/dGPU, which in general only results in faster repeat failure of the Radeon dGPU. So I know all the aspects of the MBP's history. I bought my 2011 new, it then passed around the family before returning with endless SW issues. I still have a 2011 15' MBP, although it runs well for it's age you have to jump through some hoops to deal with the high potential for dGPU failure. Logic board is not original, so I suspect that somebody has tried to fix this in the past, and like many of these, the issue returns. Have to tell the customer tomorrow that his 'pawn-shop special' is not worth much - unless you want a new hobby.

Set up a new system on a 2.5-inch SSD, from a different Mac, then installed the built-up SSD in the 2011. Then boot again, when it may suddenly fill the screen with blue dots, which requires a force shut down. I have to let it cool down for several hours. It gets REALLY hot, suddenly goes into a boot loop, then reboots very slow. I've been working with a Late 2011, 15-inch for the last couple of days. I think 300€ is a lot of money for a 2011, that STILL is highly likely to be affected by 'radeongate' (Look it up!) (That's the main difference, other than the speed, I'm not getting drawn into a discussion about which is 'better', just that the 2.5 Ghz was a custom configuration.) Next, go to a Terminal window (found in the Utilities folder or via spotlight search) and copy and paste the following command:ĭd if=~/Downloads/ubuntu.iso of=/dev/diskN bs=1mĬhange N to the number of your disk identifier, or alternatively use your arrow keys if you have already pasted the Terminal command, to change diskN to whatever value you copied from the Disk Utility (for example, it may be disk1).The 2.4Ghz i7 has 6 MB of 元 cache, the 2.5 Ghz i7 comes with 8MB of 元 cache. If you don’t do this, when you execute the command below it will simply say “Resource busy” (referring to the USB drive and the mounted partitions). Now click on each partition (or the partition if you just have one) on the USB drive and click the Unmount button at the top of the application interface. Copy the disk identifier value (CMD + C, that is). You should find a section for “Disk Identifier,” which will have a value like disk0 or disk1. To do this, when Disk Utility is open, click on the USB drive (not the partition(s) on the USB drive prior to erasing) and then click the Info button up top. Next, go to Disk Utility (found in the Utilities folder or use Spotlight in the top-right corner) and find the Disk Identifier for the USB device.